Ulster Dressmaking: Exploring Domestic Production, Material Culture, Craft, and Agency.

Summary

Affordable sewing machines and commercial patterns made home dressmaking widespread in the 20th century. The paper pattern industry helped democratise fashion and entrepreneurship (Buchart, 2013). Primarily undertaken by women across all social classes, dressmaking contributed to household economies, enabled creative expression, and carried social significance. While international journals and patterns have received academic attention, with archives providing evidence of dressmaking practices (Atkinson, 2006), little is known about pattern dissemination in Ulster.

Class distinctions played a significant role (Breward, 1999). By sharing international trends and patterns, women's magazines empowered working-class women to adopt and adapt ‘fashion’ (Emery, 2014). Tornvall (2022) suggests that acquiring patterns did not always lead to their use; instead, some patterns offered an escape from reality or represented a state of readiness for imagined futures.

Almond and Evans (2022) found that people hold vivid memories of sewing linked to specific materials, events, and objects. Hall and Jayne’s (2024) geographical study identified themes of feminism, crafting practices, austerity, fashion, consumption, and friendship.

The proposed methodology will prioritise an ethnographic approach using time-sensitive primary research methods, including interviews, photographic records, and community-based insights. This will incorporate approaches such as wardrobe studies (Klepp & Bjerk), object biography (Kopytoff, 1986), and community knowledge (Nickell, 2024). Following Finn’s (2014) call for domain-specific knowledge in fashion design, this PhD will contribute knowledge specific to Ulster’s domestic contexts.

Proposals should consider:

* Period focus within the 20th century, recommended post-1950, to facilitate primary research with people and artifacts.

* Defining the Ulster geography, which may include a specific city, county, social class, or community type.

* Community contexts, such as ‘home-made punk’ fashion or ‘1960 dance dresses’ exploring the material culture and associated subcultures.

* Practice-based methodologies, with research questions that might be addressed through reconstruction, creative practice, or the use of historical clothing in art, fashion, theatre, or film.

Essential criteria

Applicants should hold, or expect to obtain, a First or Upper Second Class Honours Degree in a subject relevant to the proposed area of study.

We may also consider applications from those who hold equivalent qualifications, for example, a Lower Second Class Honours Degree plus a Master’s Degree with Distinction.

In exceptional circumstances, the University may consider a portfolio of evidence from applicants who have appropriate professional experience which is equivalent to the learning outcomes of an Honours degree in lieu of academic qualifications.

• A comprehensive and articulate personal statement
• Research proposal of 2000 words detailing aims, objectives, milestones and methodology of the project

Desirable Criteria

If the University receives a large number of applicants for the project, the following desirable criteria may be applied to shortlist applicants for interview.

• For VCRS Awards, Masters at 75%
• Completion of Masters at a level equivalent to commendation or distinction at Ulster
• Practice-based research experience and/or dissemination
• Experience using research methods or other approaches relevant to the subject domain
• Work experience relevant to the proposed project

Equal Opportunities

The University is an equal opportunities employer and welcomes applicants from all sections of the community, particularly from those with disabilities.

Appointment will be made on merit.

Funding and eligibility

This project is funded by:

• Department for the Economy (DfE)
• Vice Chancellor's Research Scholarship (VCRS)

Our fully funded PhD scholarships will cover tuition fees and provide a maintenance allowance of £19,237 (tbc) per annum for three years* (subject to satisfactory academic performance).  A Research Training Support Grant (RTSG) of £900 per annum is also available.

These scholarships, funded via the Department for the Economy (DfE) and the Vice Chancellor’s Research Scholarships (VCRS), are open to applicants worldwide, regardless of residency or domicile.

Applicants who already hold a doctoral degree or who have been registered on a programme of research leading to the award of a doctoral degree on a full-time basis for more than one year (or part-time equivalent) are NOT eligible to apply for an award.

*Part time PhD scholarships may be available, based on 0.5 of the full time rate, and will require a six year registration period (individual project advertisements will note where part time options apply).

Due consideration should be given to financing your studies.